El-Okda, E. (2017). A study on the felting propensity of Egyptian and New Zealand wool fibers. International Design Journal, 7(1), 165-177. doi: 10.12816/0049417
Enas A. H. El-Okda. "A study on the felting propensity of Egyptian and New Zealand wool fibers". International Design Journal, 7, 1, 2017, 165-177. doi: 10.12816/0049417
El-Okda, E. (2017). 'A study on the felting propensity of Egyptian and New Zealand wool fibers', International Design Journal, 7(1), pp. 165-177. doi: 10.12816/0049417
El-Okda, E. A study on the felting propensity of Egyptian and New Zealand wool fibers. International Design Journal, 2017; 7(1): 165-177. doi: 10.12816/0049417
A study on the felting propensity of Egyptian and New Zealand wool fibers
Home Economics Dept., Textile &Clothing Division, Women's College- Ain Shams University, Cairo, Egypt
Abstract
Felting is a unique property of many animal fibers. It is an ancient and historic way of transforming fleece into felt hats, caps, vests, skirts, boots, scarves and many other manufacturing felted products. In this research, felting propensity of Egyptian and New Zealand wool fibers has been examined. The Aachen felting test method was employed. The diameter of each ball and the density were calculated to recognize the felting degree. The effect of scouring, bleaching as well as four different variables of pre-treatment water baths -pH, temperature, liquor ratio and agitation- on the felting propensity of these pre-treatment fibers were investigated. Also, the effect of four felting medium – acidic, alkaline, salty and soapy mediums - on the degree of felting process was studied. The results show that the pre- treatment wool fibers in different water baths have higher felting propensity than untreated one (control sample) especially with scoured wool .There is a higher tendency of felting for bleached followed with scoured fibers than raw fibers. In the most cases of pre-treatment water baths; acidic medium has a remarkable influence on the propensity of fibers felting specially in case of using temperature and agitation. The acidic felting medium solution has a great influence effect on the values of felting fibers especially with raw wool fibers than scoured fibers in both Egyptian and New Zealand wool; and soapy felting medium has the lowest tendency on wool felting than acidic and alkaline mediums compering with buffer pH=7. The present study would help increasing the utility of the local wool in the industry to revive felt making industry and to increase the competitiveness of the Egyptian product and achieve greater Egyptian industry's ability to integrate into the global economy, creating new jobs and increase national income as a result of increasing the volume of industrial exports and reduce dependence on imports. Also this study can be applied on some agricultural wastes (non-wood plants) as potential resources and alternative fibers in textile and paper industries.
Miller E. . “Textiles Properties & Behavior in Clothing Use”, BT Batsford, Ltd., London (1984).
Holt; Rinehart & Winston, INC. “Essentials of Textiles”, 4th Edition, Saunders College publishing, U.S.A (1988).
Simpson W. S. & G. H. Crawshaw. “Wool: Science & Technology”, (G. H.Crawshaw.
Chap.10, 290), Woodhead Publishing Ltd., Cambridge, England (2002).
Chaplin M. & C. Bucke. “Enzyme Technology”, Cambridge University Press, 1990, Faculty of Engineering, Science & Built Environment, London, South Bank University. http://www.lsbu.ac.uk/biology/enztech December (2004)
EL-Gabbas H.M., M.R.I. Anous and E.M. Al-Betar. “Wool Grading and Processing System to Improve the Utility of the Egyptian Barki Wool”, Egyptian J. Anim. Prod., 46(2):113-128 (2009).
Conforte D. ‚ S. Dunlop and E. Garnevska. “New Zealand Wool Inside: A Discussion Case Study”, International Food and Agribusiness Management Review Volume 14, Issue 3 (2011).
Bunsell R.." Hand Book of tensile properties of textile & technical fibres", (M. G. Huson, Chap. 5, 100), Wood head puplishing Ltd., Cornwall, UK (2009).
Simpson W. S. & G. H. Crawshaw. “Wool: Science & Technology”, (J. W. S. Hearle. Chap. 4,80), Woodhead Publishing Ltd., Cambridge, England (2002).
Olson E. S.. “Textile Wet Processes- Preparation of Fibers & Fabrics”, (Chap. 13, 173), Noyes Publications, Vol. 1, New Jersey, U.S.A (1983).
Schick M. J.. “Surface Characteristics of Fibers & Textiles”, Vol. 7, Part 1, (K. R. Makinson. Chap.3, 110), Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York, U.S.A (1977).
Morton W. E. & J. W. S. Hearle. “Fibers, The Textile Institute, 2nd edition, William Heinemann Ltd., London and University of Michigan (2007).
Joseph M. L.. “Introductory Textile Science”, 4th Edition, CBS College Publishing (1981).
Timar-Balazsy A. & D. Eastop. “Chemical principles of textile conservation”, (Chap. 1, 1), Butterworth Heinemann, Oxford (1998).
Lewis D.M. & G. Yan. ‘‘The effect of various chromium species on wool keratin’’, The journal of society of dyers & colourists, Vol.109, 193 May (1993).
Mauersberger H. R.. “Matthews’ Textile fibers- Their Physical, Microscopic & Chemical Properties”, 6th Edition, (Chap. XI, 547 & Chap. XII. 612), John Wiley & sons, Ltd., London and University of Michigan (2007).
Sampath M. R.. “Cotton/ Woollen Blends”, Colourage, 85, October (2003).
J. A. Rippon, et al. "Wool, in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Technology", Interscience Publishers, New York (2003).
Pierlot A. P.. “In Fluency of Glass Transition on the Felting Shrinkage of Wool Fabric”, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 67, No. 8, 616 August (1997).
Pitts J. M. D.. “Felted Wool Yarns”, Wool Science Review 56, International Wool Secretariat. Technical Centre, England (2008).
Moncrieff R.W.. “Wool Shrinkage & Its Prevention”, The National Trade Press Ltd., Great Britain and University of Michigan (2006).
Shenai V. A.. “Wool Treatment”, The Indian Textile Journal, Vol. 113, No. 6, 89, March (2003).
Xin L. & W. Wang. "A Comparative Study on the Felting Propensity of Animal Fibers", Textile Research Journal, Vol. 77, No. 12, 957, (2007).
Stambery E.. “Liamapaedia: Fiber Glossary”, http://www.llamapaedia.com/wool/wool.html (2003).
Heine E.. “Combined Process- Shrinkproofing & Handle Modification of Wool”, Cost 847- Textile Biotechnology & Quality, Newsletter 1, 6 (2005).
Kaswell E.R.. “Textile fibers, yarns & fabrics”, Reinhold publishing corporation, (Chap. 18, 347), New York (1953).
Alexander P. & R. F. Hudson. “Wool- Its Chemistry & Physics”, (Chap. 2, 15), Champman & Hall Ltd., London and Cornell University (2008).
Sadov F., M. Korchgin & A. Matetsky. “Chemical technology of Fibrous Materials”, (Part. 2, Chap. 6, 256), Mir publishers, Moscow and University of California (2008).
The American Wool Council. “Processing Wool Fact Sheet”, Division American Sheep Industry Association, Inc.
Smith J.L.. “Textile processing”, 1st Edition, Abhishek publication, Chandigarh-17, India (2003).
Shukla S. R., U. Sharma & K. S. Kulkarni. “Enzymes & their use in Textile Processes”, Colourage, 19, February (2000).
Wuppertal G. H.. “Bleaching of Pigmented Speciality Animal Fibers & Wool”, Review of Progress in Coloration, Vol. 24, 17 (1994).
L. R. Mizell. “The Properties, Functions & Uses of Pressed Wool Felts”, Wool Science Review 61, p. 3- 35, Joseph Ward & Co., (printers) Ltd, West Yorkshire and University of Michigan (2007).
Ahmed T., K. Yasar & C. Mustafa. “Evaluation of tea wastes in usage pulp and paper production”, BioResources, 10 (3), p. 5407-5416 (2015).
Shakhes J., et al. “Tobacco residuals as promising lignocellosic materials for pulp and paper industry”, BioResources, 6 (4), p. 4481-4493 (2011).
Hashim Amin. “ICGSCE 2014: Proceedings of the International Conference on Global Sustainability and Chemical”, A. Kassim, et al. “Exploring non- wood plants as alternative pulps: from the physical and chemical perspectives”, p. 19-24, Springer science+ business media Singapore Pte Ltd. (2015)
Kamoga O. L. M., et al. “Characterizations of ugandan selected grasses and tree leaves for pulp extraction for paper industry”, International journal of scientific and technology research, vol. 2, issue 9, September (2013).
Andelin J., R. W. Niblock & J. W. Curlin. “Technologies for Reducing Dioxin in the Manufacture of Bleached Wood Pulp”, (Chap. 2, 17), Washington, DC: U.S. Government Printing Office (1989).
Bajpai P.. “Biotechnology for pulp and paper processing”, chap. 2, p. 7-14, Springer science+ business media LLC. New York, U.S.A (2015).
Keefe A., G. Astrakianakis and J. Anderson. “Encyclopedia of occupational health and safety”, 4th edition, Part X, chap. 72- Pulp and paper industry (2016).
http://www.ilocis.org/documents/chpt72e.htm
Hicks C. L.. “Optimizing Paper Machine Felt Change Schedules”.
http://orsnz.org.nz/conf34/PDFs/Hicks.pdf
Wang X., L. Wang and X. Liu. “The Quality and Processing Performance of Alpaca Fibres”, Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation, Australian Government, ISBN 0642 58694 2, November (2003).