Momen, N., Abdalfatah, H., Darwesh, G. (2021). Effect tensile behavior of spandex/polyester yarns on the stress–strain. International Design Journal, 11(5), 351-367. doi: 10.21608/idj.2021.191711
Nagwa Shokry Momen; Hazem Abdalfatah; Ghada Maher Lotfy Darwesh. "Effect tensile behavior of spandex/polyester yarns on the stress–strain". International Design Journal, 11, 5, 2021, 351-367. doi: 10.21608/idj.2021.191711
Momen, N., Abdalfatah, H., Darwesh, G. (2021). 'Effect tensile behavior of spandex/polyester yarns on the stress–strain', International Design Journal, 11(5), pp. 351-367. doi: 10.21608/idj.2021.191711
Momen, N., Abdalfatah, H., Darwesh, G. Effect tensile behavior of spandex/polyester yarns on the stress–strain. International Design Journal, 2021; 11(5): 351-367. doi: 10.21608/idj.2021.191711
Effect tensile behavior of spandex/polyester yarns on the stress–strain
1Professor of Draping on the Mannequin , Former Head of the Clothing & Textiles Department, Faculty of Home Economics, Helwan University
2Professor of Clothing Manufacturing in the Department of Clothing &Textiles, Faculty of Home Economics, Helwan University
3PhD researcher in the Department of Clothing & Textiles , Faculty of Home Economics, Helwan University
Abstract
It became clear from the field survey carried out by the researcher for a number of factories and shops specialized in the sale of Corsets, as well as ateliers to identify the problems that facing the manufacture of the reinforced corsets in Egypt with its different dimensions and aspects, that the corsets industry in Egypt is limited to a specific type of corsets, which are shapewear, which is manufactured With Lycra and Spandex fabrics with different textile structures, they are made on machines that produce one piece. As for the corset reinforced with boning and the metal front busk, they are not produced in Egypt and are imported from abroad in a limited way and at high prices that do not suit many classes of society. It was also clear from the exploratory study and from the opinions of workers in shapewear factories. The shapewear has problems related to the patterns and their fit and conformity to the body of the Egyptian woman, in addition to the lack of production requirements and the need for the stages of manufacturing corsets for special machines, and the results of personal interviews with workers in the ateliers resulted in the importance of wearing the corset with evening wear and on special occasions to show the fabric and the body in the appropriate appearance and in a consistent manner. And help to hide the body defects, in addition to the problem of the lack of manufacturing a corset is made to order in the atelier, and the client is asked to import it or buy the Shapewear available in the market, so the current study sets practical and applicable solutions to the problems of manufacturing reinforced corsets in Egypt and trying to provide those important products in the Egyptian market by proposing and implementing a high-quality product that matches the manufacturing capabilities in Egypt and suits the Egyptian woman and meets her requirements. The research problem determined in the following questions:
1- What are the obstacles to the production of reinforced corsets industrially in Egypt?
2- What is the possibility of draping patterns of reinforced corsets that have good fit?
3- What are the detailed steps for producing reinforced corsets industrially?
4- What are the producers’ opinions about the production of reinforced corsets implemented in the research according to the two variables (technical file - the manufacturing possibility)? The research Objectives: The research aims to:
1- Determining the obstacles to the production of reinforced corsets industrially in Egypt.
2- Drape the patterns of reinforced corsets that have good fit.
3- Set the detailed steps to produce reinforced corsets industrially.
4- Measuring the opinions of producers towards the production of reinforced corsets implemented in the research according to the two variables (technical file - the possibility of manufacturing). The research Methodology: The research follows:
the descriptive approach with the application because it is the appropriate Methodology that leads to solving the problem in the correct scientific method, starting from identifying the problems that hinder the manufacture of reinforced corsets in Egypt according to the polls of workers in factories, shops and ateliers using the tools of this Methodology from personal interview forms and questionnaire, and then put solutions According to the methods and techniques of the descriptive Methodology in proportion to the capabilities of the industry in Egypt and its practical application, then measuring the opinions of producers according to the tools and steps of the same Methodology on a sample of workers in garment factories towards the reinforced corsets that were designed and manufactured in this research. Research sample: The research required two types of samples as follows:
1- The exploratory sample their number (23): It consisted of workers in the administration and various production departments in ready-made garment factories that can produce corsets, as well as workers in shops, and workers in ateliers in various departments that are interested in this product, with the aim of identifying the size of the research problem and its dimensions And the total number of them was (23), where the number of workers in factories was (10), and workers in shops were (8), and workers in ateliers were (5)
2- The main sample their number (14): a sample of producers working in garment factories in Egypt with the aim of identifying their opinions towards the reinforced corsets produced in the research. Research tools: The research required building the following tools:
1- Tools of the field reconnaissance study: Personal interview forms: (3) personal interview forms were built with the aim of collecting information about the reinforced corsets and to identify the size of the research problem. This was done through direct interviews and field visits to factories their number (10) and shops their number ( 8), as well as ateliers and their number (5).
2- The basic study tool (the questionnaire): The questionnaire was designed and prepared with the aim of identifying the opinions of the producers working in the factories in terms of technical aspects, the operation file and the possibility of manufacturing the three reinforced corsets implemented in the research and expressing their opinion through this questionnaire. Results and Discussion:
1- It became clear from the results of the responses of the workers in the sample department that they were better than the responses of the quality and production supervisors with regard to the “technical file.” This can be explained that the preparation of the technical file is the specialty of the sample department, which indicates that the technical file is integrated based on scientific and practical foundations, while the quality and production supervisors only follows up on what was stated in the technical file and supervises its implementation, and this explains their less responsiveness.
2- It was found from the responses of the quality and production supervisors that they are higher than the responses of the workers in the sample department with regard to “manufacturing Possibility” and this may be due to direct friction between the quality and production supervisors and the actual production process, which confirms that the reinforced corsets implemented by research are capable of being produced in an industrial method, and that the file The operation of the three corsets is clear and accurate, while the workers in the sample department by virtue of their work are far from the process of operating the product from the specialization of quality and production supervisors.
3- The results generally indicate that the more years of experience, the higher the efficiency in the work and the awareness of its requirements, details and all its aspects, and this is confirmed by the results of measuring the two axes included in the questionnaire (the technical file of operation, and the possibility of manufacturing).
4- It is also clear from the results that the responses of the producers whose years of experience were from 10 years or more are higher than the responses of the producers whose years of experience were less in the two axes of the questionnaire. This may be due to the more experienced people’s knowledge of the technical aspects of all production stages, starting from the design form, choosing the appropriate fabric, preparing the pattern and marker, operating and calculating the final cost of the product, and putting those steps clearly and distinctly in an integrated technical file, more than those with less years of experience, and this is in regard axis (technical file), As for the axis (the possibility of manufacturing), The high responses from their experience of 10 years or more may explain that they are more able to distinguish different types of products and identify what is suitable for mass-produce in Egypt and what is appropriate for the operating steps in the industrial method, more than those with less years of experience.
5- The results of the responses of the producers with experience from 5 years to less than 10 years were higher than the responses of those with less than 5 years of experience. This may be due to the lack of sufficient knowledge of those with less experience with the technical aspects of the production stages, and their limited ability to distinguish what products are suitable for quantitative production.
6- The average scores of the second design are higher than the average scores of the first and third designs with a clear difference. This may be due to the presence of more cut lines and boning than the first and third designs, which makes it more attractive in its general form, and the distribution of boning in it makes it suitable for tightening different areas of the body, which improves the The shape of the body is greater, and this may also indicate that the design is suitable for industrial production and is marketable in the opinions of the sample of producers.
The average scores of the first design are close to the average scores of the third design, and this may be explained by the fact that the two designs have fewer cuts, making it easier to mass-produce
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